The Enslaved French Chef
One Mic Black History Newsletter #19
Welcome to One Mic History Newsletter. Thank you for your continued support. Today, we delve into a fascinating story of Thomas Jefferson’s enslaved personal chef James Hemings.
Thomas Jefferson is a Founding Father the United States, However, He was also a wealthy planter who owned more than 600 enslaved people throughout his lifetime. At the height of his wealth, over 140 of these enslaved persons resided at his Monticello estate. One family of particular note at Monticello was the Hemings family.
James Hemings was born into a life of slavery in 1765, brought into the Monticello estate due to his mother’s relationship with Jefferson's father-in-law, John Wayles, James found himself in a peculiar position of being both sibling and slave to Jefferson after his mother Martha Wayles Skelton married Jefferson in 1772. Being literate, which was rare amongst enslaved individuals at the time, he had already shown his potential. Jefferson chose to refine this talent, which resulted in Hemings blossoming into an extraordinary chef.
At the age of 19, James and his sister Sally joined Jefferson on a transatlantic voyage to Paris, following Jefferson’s appointment as America’s trade minister in 1784. James went on to get an extraordinary culinary training under esteemed chefs at the Château de Chantilly. This impressive education later led him to manage Jefferson’s private home kitchen in Paris, the Hôtel de Langeac. Here, he won people over by expertly blending French and American culinary techniques and creating a unique cuisine.
Although they were legally free to pursue their freedom in France, the Hemings siblings chose to return to America, fearing separation from their family. Back in America, James worked as Jefferson’s personal chef, even earning wages for his work, a rare thing for enslaved individuals during this time.
In the years that followed, Hemings significantly influenced American food and also played a pivotal role in a historic dinner for James Madison and Jefferson, named the meal "to save the union". Whilst in Philadelphia, a state that had abolished slavery, James negotiated for his emancipation with Jefferson on the very condition that he would impart his culinary wisdom to another slave. Hemings chose his younger brother Peter for the task, ensuring Peter would have a better life and guaranteeing his own freedom.
Hemings’ immense talent in the kitchen led him to introduce new dishes to the American public, forever changing the nation’s food landscape. It was his innovative cooking abilities that took traditional French dishes such as ice cream, macaroni and cheese, crème brûlée, and French fries and tailor-made them with American ingredients.
Hemings, upon becoming a free man in 1796, attempted to carve out a life for himself in a society that was still heavily biased against people of color. Despite the hardships faced, Hemings continued his work as a professional chef in Philadelphia and Baltimore, becoming an important part of the free black community. Unfortunately, comprehensive details about this period of Hemings' life are limited.
However, In a surprising twist, Hemings had another encounter with Jefferson, who requested his services once again. Although initially willing, Hemings felt uncomfortable working among unfamiliar servants and asked Jefferson to directly outline the terms of the job offer. While Jefferson never contacted him, James did spend a month working at Monticello.
Sadly, in 1801, Hemings' life took a tragic turn when he reportedly committed suicide. The reasons for this remain unknown, lost to history. His immense contributions to the realm of American cuisine, however, live on, testifying to the indomitable spirit of this remarkable individual who accomplished so much despite the confines of his birth.
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-Countryboi